Pergola Braces

To finish the main structure, we also had to cut and install the post braces. These help prevent any wobbling and will provide strength during strong summer storms or winter snowfall.

We bought a 2x6x12 at Home Depot and had them cut it down into 4 pieces, 3 feet long. Using a miter saw, Mike cut down the ends at a 45 degree angle and we stained them. He attached them to the posts with pocket holes and screws and to the “outer box” pieces with a combination of nails and screws.

Once the braces were up, everything felt very sturdy. Braces really do make a difference. Back in the early planning stages, we wondered if they were really necessary, especially if we were attaching the whole thing to the house. But I can tell you for a fact that braces are very important and make a big difference!

Pergola: Top Pieces

For the top of the pergola, we needed 12 ft long 2x2 strips. At least in NJ, Home Depot doesn’t sell exterior pressure-treated 2x2s in 12 ft lengths. We probably could have shopped around in an attempt to find it, but that would have required more truck rentals or delivery fees and we didn’t want to deal with that. Instead we decided to be brave and cut them down ourselves. This would have been MUCH easier with a table saw, but we don’t have room for a table saw right now in our ridiculously unorganized garage or basement. Instead we set things up very carefully with the circular saw and hoped for the best.

It worked. It was a pain, but it worked. Mike cut five 2x4s down the middle to create ten 2x2s. We actually only needed nine, but we're saving the last 2x2 for another part. Once they were cut I stained all of them. Finally it was time to put the top pieces of the pergola up, laying parallel with the house over the cross beams. Since these pieces were for more for shade and stability over structure, we decided to forgo the notches and just attach them with a heavy duty nail gun and 2 ½” nails. All we had to do was measure and cut the decorative ends with a jigsaw at the right length, line them up, and nail them into each piece below.

Excuse all of the sawdust all over the pergola - the whole thing needs a rinse with the hose (or some rain!)

It took a lot of nails, but it’s very sturdy and really helps prevent any wobbling. Of course, the final pieces for stability (and wobble prevention) were our next step - the corner braces.

Patio Fix

We actually started to put the patio back together once the 4x4 posts were up, but we hit a snag when we were putting the pavers back in. Our wet tile saw that we needed was out on loan at a friend’s house and we had forgotten. Whoops! So we had to put the second half of the patio re- installation on hold until we could coordinate a tool drop off.

Anyways, the first half of the patio re-installation went very quickly and smoothly. To get the patio back together around the posts over the cement footings, we filled in around the footing with the gravel base, wet it and then tamped it down with the hand tamper. Then we put in the patio sand base and leveled it out.

We started to put the pavers back in place when we realized they were still covered in chunks of polymetric sand. So we had to chisel that stuff off first so they fit - that stuff is really like cement! But then the pavers went back into place fairly quickly, with the exception of the ones that needed to be cut down.

Fast forward a week, and we had the wet tile saw back. Mike cut down 4 pavers around the posts to make room for them. Amazingly on the left side, only 1 paver needed to be cut down - though into 3 parts. On the right side he had to cut down 3 pavers - including one at a slightly odd angle to make room for the post screws.

Once those were in, we could finally put down the polymetric sand that holds everything together so well. There were actually a few spots on the patio that needed another dose of sand (after 2 full years that’s not bad at all!), so we wanted to hit them all at once. When the bag is opened and the sand is exposed to the humidity, anything unused would be ruined anyways. So we cleared the patio off completely, cleaned it of any debris with the blower, then put down the sand in the necessary spots. Just like during our original patio installation, we swept it into the cracks with a broom and then used the blower to clear off any remaining sand from the tops of the pavers (once this stuff gets wet, it’s stuck like cement). Then we hit the whole patio with the hose on the mist setting and let it dry.

It was a big relief to finally have the patio back together. After putting so much work into building it, it was hard to tear it up - even just a few pavers for a good cause. So it felt really good to have the whole patio back together, new and improved with the pergola posts over it!

Supervisor

It might be too hot for her to stay outside long in the summer heat, but that doesn't stop our pergola project supervisor from keeping a close eye on us from the comfort of the AC.

Pergola in Process: Crossbeams

Once the outer box was built, we installed the rest of the cross beams between the house and the outer 2x6s. Like the two outer cross beams we installed, we marked, measured and cut as we went. Since the notches require a perfect fit (which adds to the strength) and variations in the wood can mess up measurements - each piece had to be rested on the joist bracket and the two 2x6s, marked, then brought down and cut. We drew in the notches, measured 12 inches out, then traced the decorative edge template onto the wood.

Our makeshift  driveway workstation with all the piles of scrap wood

Once everything was cut out, Mike installed a couple of pocket holes over the notches with his kreg jig to secure it to the 2x6 beam (since the inner pieces don’t have posts to attach to). Then we put it up into place on the pergola structure and drilled it in. When all of the cross beams were up in place, we filled in the pocket holes with stainable exterior wood filler.

Views of the top from the deck

There were 9 inner cross beams to do (for a total of 11 cross beams), so this happened over several evenings. There's only a small sliver of time between baby’s bedtime and darkness, and we didn’t want to rush and make a mistake.

It was really exciting to get to this point, where the pergola really started to come together. Of course there's still a long way to go (including staining the ends and wood filler patches), but it was beginning to finally look like a real pergola!

Pergola in Process: Outer Box Framed

Once the posts were up, we were able to install the main braces to create the outer "box" of the pergola. This would stabilize the vertical posts and finally show the main footprint.

We took two 2x6s and cut a decorative edge off the side using a jigsaw/scroll saw. I drew on a design I liked (basically I copied our neighbor’s pergola edge design) and cut it out. This piece then became the template, I traced around it onto the other ends and cut them out.

Using the string and line level again from the joist, we marked where the outer 2x4 cross beams were going to land against the post, then added an inch to accommodate for a 1” notch cut out of each one. This marked the top of where the 2x6 would go on both sides.

Putting up the 2x6 was a bit tricky with only 2 people. It would have been a cinch with 3, but we made do. Basically I climbed up on a ladder (terrified out of my wits because I have an awful fear of heights, even only a few feet off the ground) in between in the two posts and held the 2x6 up while resting a level on the beam to make sure I was holding it perfectly level. Mike made sure I had it at the right height against the post marks and he measured the overhang beyond the post to make it was centered. Then he screwed it into the 4x4 post with 4 large bolts (since the 2x6s help support half the weight) on both ends.

A really bad thunderstorm actually blew in right after we put up the first 2x6, so we had to call it a night. It went from sunny skies to dark clouds and distant thunder in a few short minutes. We braced the posts with deck chairs, picked up all the tools and rushed inside before the sky opened up with a massive downpour.

The following night we picked up where we left off, and the second 2x6 beam on the inside of the pergola posts went faster. This time we just had to line it up with the same vertical mark and make sure the ends matched up with the front. I used the level again while holding it up to make sure everything was balanced. Mike screwed it into the post.

Then we just had to do the two sides with two 2x4 cross beams. We placed the 2x4 in the joist bracket and rested the other side on top of the 2x6s against the post. We marked where the notches would go and brought it down. Before cutting it we fleshed out the boxes for the 1 inch notches with a pen. Then 12” from the outer notch, we drew on an edge design similar to what was on the 2x6s. After everything was cut out with the scroll saw, this extra piece became our template for the rest of the 2x4 edges.

We repeated the same process for the cross beam on the other side. Resting it on the joist bracket and the 2x6s, we marked the notches and brought it down. It’s important to mark each one individually and cut as we go due to variations in the wood. All the pergola plans we read emphasized this - don’t make assumptions about the size or placement. Mark and cut each one as you go.

Mike screwed everything in and the structure was finally very sturdy. The notches really help secure everything together in addition to the screws. Seriously, an adult could hang off it, which is good just incase our little guy grows into a climber and tries to use this as a jungle gym someday. Safety first - now and later!

Pergola Posts Up

Once our footings had set, we were able to install the posts. This actually took longer than we expected, including two separate trips to the hardware store. First we had the wrong giant bolts to go into the concrete. Then we had the wrong sized concrete screws for the post brackets. Whoops! There was also quite a bit of measuring and checking to make sure the brackets went exactly where they needed to go. Finally Mike was able to attach the metal post brackets to the concrete with the proper massive bolts that go way deep down into the concrete footing, then a set of concrete screws to keep it all in place. Whew!

Next had to cut the 12 foot posts down to the proper height. We placed the post in the metal bracket and used a string and a line level to figure out how high the 2x4s would be from the joist brackets. Then we added on 2 inches for the 2x2s that will go above the 2x4s, plus another 6 inches for that decorative post look. I can't believe I didn't take a picture of this part, or one of the posts standing on their own. I think the heat melted my brain.

We cut them down and I stained the top. Using two levels to make sure the post was plumb on both verticals, I held the post up while Mike screwed it into the bracket below.  At least here you can see what the post looked like secured to the footing.

The post brackets keep the posts very secure to the ground, but the posts are very tall and heavy. Without any upper support, they could sway and were a potential hazard. We were eager to get the full outer “box” together next fully secure and balance the posts much more permanently.

Summer Citrus Lane

This month's Citrus Lane box was much better than June's. It's a good box - I would title it "Welcome to Toddlerhood."

The best thing in the box is a Melissa and Doug wooden peg puzzle. This was actually something on my list that I wanted to get for Oliver anyways, so I'm pleased. Currently Oliver just removes the pieces and hides them around the house, but I'm glad to have it. The box also contained a Zo Li sumo stacking container for toddler sized snacks and meals. This will be helpful in the coming months as Oliver's appetite continues to increase. It's something I would never buy for myself (for such a high retail price I'd opt for Gladware!), but that's the fun of Citrus Lane. There was also a Cool it Buddy one-time-use ice pack for falls and bumps on the go - I think this is ingenious and a new essential for my diaper bag. With Oliver walking now, he falls A LOT. We have a lot of ice packs at home - but what about when we're out and about? I totally didn't think about it and I'm so glad they did.

To top it off there was a purple Ella's kitchen snack pouch for Ollie. And for me, a giftcard to postagram for 10 free postcards (worth $10) to show off my handsome toddler to family and friends. I actually really like the postagram gift card - what a cool idea!

This month's is a good solid box, I'm quite happy with all of the items in here. I think it makes a great "welcome to toddlerhood box" which is fun - honestly I wish this had arrived last month when Ollie turned 1 instead of June's disappointing summer box. I appreciate that they made sure there were 5 full sized items  (instead of 4 items that included a trial size). The value is also excellent - the best price match total for the items is $45, which is a great deal even if you pay full price for a subscription. I also appreciate the thoughtfulness and timeliness of this box - all of the items are perfectly age appropriate and either things I wanted or things I needed but didn't know about.

If you like what you see and want to join with a $10 off coupon of your very own, click here:
https://www.citruslane.com/invitedby/citrus.lane.471652

See February’s Box | March’s Box | April’s Box | May’s Box | June's Box

Pergola House Support

While the two concrete footings were setting and curing, we installed the ledger board against the house that would hold the joist brackets for the cross beams. We wanted it to be as high as possible, so it went directly under the windows. During the placement planning phase, we marked where this board would go and where the plumbing and electrical was in the wall so we could avoid it when installing the giant bolts that would keep the whole side up.

Marks for the plumbing inside and outside the wall that we had to avoid

We had to cut out a piece to make room for the pipe that sticks out of the house. Then it was just a matter of attaching it to the house with the right bolts to hold all the weight.

Mike then installed the joist brackets that would hold the 2x4 cross beams that would span from the house to the main supports. There are 11 brackets going across. These go into the board instead of the house, so we just had to avoid the exterior pipe when placing these. It was a slow process - lots of measuring, math and making sure everything was spaced evenly.

From here it was back to the concrete footings and securing the posts.

Digging Down into Pergola Purgatory

Before the project ever began, we knew that installing the concrete footings for the main support posts would be the hardest part. You have to make sure the posts are placed perfectly - they have to be in the exact location to be square and then they have to be perfectly plumb and vertical to support the structure. One mistake here would mess up the whole thing. On top of that pressure, digging deep holes during a heatwave is also exhausting. And we knew that it would be emotionally stressful to dig up two sections of the patio we built with our blood, sweat and tears two years ago.

To place the concrete footings, we used the mason string, markers and line levels we used to build the patio. With a tape measure and right angle in hand, we determined the proper placement of the whole pergola footprint, then the footings and posts to create the correct right angles.

Laying out and marking where the pergola will go against the house

We marked the pavers that had to be removed. If we had a concrete patio, all we would have to do is drill into the concrete and be done. But pavers are not so stable, so we actually had to install real concrete footings. We had to pull up the pavers (ACK!), then disturb the sand and gravel base underneath. Mike actually had to smash and destroy one of the pavers to be able to pull up the left section (since it wasn’t by a side where we could pry one up). It was painful to watch, but we have a lot of extra pavers to replace it. Again, it’s just not easy to intentionally damage something we so recently and lovingly built - even in the name of something better!

Once the pavers were up and the holes were dug, we placed the concrete tube in the hole. Then there was more measuring and tweaking to make sure everything was still lined up correctly.

This angle makes the hole look deceptively shallow - it's actually very deep!

Mike backfilled around the hole up to the surrounding gravel base to keep it in place. Then we mixed up the cement in our old wheelbarrow and poured in the concrete into the tubes.

We let it set and cure overnight. Footings - check! Next up - the supports against the house.

Building a Pergola: Stain

When we chose to build a wooden pergola over the patio, we knew we wanted to have it match the dark brown deck stain for a cohesive look.

The dark brown stained patio furniture and deck

While putting together our step-by-step game plan we realized that staining the entire pergola after it’s built, up on a ladder, was going to be a pain. So instead we decided that we should actually stain all of the pieces before we began, and do touch ups once it was built. Yes we would waste some stain and effort on the parts we trim off (all of the pergola instructions call for cutting-as-you go), but I figured we would save time and work in the long run not needing to climb up and down the ladder a million times.

From left to right: two coats of stain, 1 coat of stain, no stain.

Pre-staining everything was time consuming and an ongoing process. 24 pieces of lumber brought home, 12 feet long, 4 sides, 2 coats. It’s A LOT of staining to do. A lot. And of course we kicked off this project during a massive heat wave (just like patio) with crazy humidity and thunderstorms. You can’t get anything wet for 24 hours after staining so it was very tricky. And you can’t stain when the temperatures climb over 90, which was pretty much every day (and really why would you want to in that kind of heat anyways?). There were a lot of speed bumps. Plus staining is pretty boring.

A close-up of the color difference between 1 and 2 coats 

I started with the 4x4 posts and the 2x6 pieces that would be the main supports of the structure, since those were going up first. I propped the pieces up on old pavers so I could get the sides easier. Then I moved onto the 11 pieces of 2'x4'x12’ that had to be stained as the cross beams. 5 of the 2x4s actually had to be split lengthwise into 2 to become 2x2s, so that created 10 more pieces, 12 feet long, 4 sides, 2 coats. It’s taking forever. As long as it’s stained before we need it, I consider it a success. It’s not easy to do a big project with a toddler. We can only work on it for small snippets of time. When the weather cooperates. A little bit here and there is better than nothing!